Start with the cloth on the Sheffield Golden Leaf Soft Grey Twill Double-Breasted Suit. Up close you'll see a twill with faint diagonal ribs.

The fit guarantee applies, so you're covered if the fit needs work. Plan on about two weeks from order to delivery, since each one's made to your measurements.

The front wraps across your body, with two columns of buttons and a wide overlap. Keep it fastened when you're on your feet, which is how a double-breasted cut should look. If you only own one or two suits, pick shades you'll actually reach for often, since the suit you wear every week matters more than the one saved for rare events.

Skip the tie.

Fiber content is 95% wool and 5% cashmere. Wool holds a press well and recovers after a day's wear.

It works for workdays and for weddings, depending on the shirt and tie you pick. With golden and grey, a white shirt reads sharp and a light blue one reads softer. You can get the Sheffield Golden Leaf Soft Grey Twill fabric as trousers and a suit vest too.