SUIT
The depth of your business wardrobe really depends on two things: the demands of your job and your sense of style. On average, most guys should own at least four to six suits, with variation depending on several factors. If you’re with a laid back company without too many social engagements, you can probably get away with two to three suits – solid charcoal, solid navy and maybe a subtle pinstripe. If you work in a professional services environment, like finance or law, you most likely want to have nine to twelve suits. Build your wardrobe around a solid foundation of versatile, well-made suits and then expand based on personal style, work demands and geographic conditions.
We recommend you first have what many consider to be the four pillars of every man’s wardrobe: Solid Charcoal, Solid Navy, Charcoal Pinstripe, Navy Pinstripe. These four classics will cover you in almost any situation and provide a good mix of tradition and style. From there, expand your wardrobe based on your personal preferences. If you like to show off your stylish nature, go with a more modern colored pinstripe or a sleek sharkskin. For a more subtle look, go for a traditional plaid or classic charcoal herringbone. Finally, add a light linen or cotton suit to give you versatility into the summer months. To summarize, start with a classic foundation and build from there.
The one-button suit is increasingly trendy in the fashion world. Slightly less formal, it is more often seen at social events and less in the office. As it tends to be more fashion forward, we recommend only doing a one-button jacket with a modern or casual fabric.
While the black suit has become more popular over the past few years, we still prefer it for special occasions. You will see it around the workplace, but it is a more modern look. Be your own guide. If your office tends to be on the conservative side, save the black suit for the gala.
The first rule to remember is to never button all your buttons. When buttoning your suit, leave the bottom button undone on both two and three-button suits. As to when it is proper to button your jacket, use your best judgment. A buttoned jacket provides a more professional look and a slimmer impression. An unbuttoned jacket suggests a more casual mood.
One last tip: When you sit down, regardless of the situation, always unbutton your jacket. Just make sure to re-button it when you stand back up.
Our Montague cut, which is a trimmer, more modern cut, will flatter men who are in great shape. Additionally, lean males look better in a tapered fit, as traditional cuts often hang off of their frames, making their figure look more lanky than lean. Our classic Capulet cut, while more tapered than average, provides a little extra room for guys with slightly larger builds. If you tend to stay away from slim cut shirts and suits, we recommend the Capulet cut.
This is largely a matter of personal preference. Here at Alton Lane, we think cool linings and bright colors can add a fun, but subtle element to your wardrobe. If you want a more conservative look, we suggest you go with a more subdued lining, like a classic navy, dark grey, or solid black. These are sophisticated and professional, and will go with almost any fabric.
While ticket pockets were more commonplace in the early 20th century, they have recently found their way back in style. They can be great for blazers, particularly ones you plan on wearing to social events, as they show you are a man of the times. On suits, we recommend them with bolder, stylish fabrics, as they help complete the look, but for your more traditional suits, consider leaving the ticket pocket off.
In general, we find that when it comes to interviews, you want to look sharp and competent without going over the top. We recommend wearing a classic suit (solid grey, solid blue or a subtle chalk-stripe) complemented with a crisp shirt and an exceptional tie.
Absolutely. The first rule of thumb when it comes to weddings is to see what the bride prefers. If the invitation calls for ‘Black Tie’, you want to go with a classic tuxedo. Otherwise, follow the general guidelines below based on time of day:
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- Before 5 p.m.: Blazer or Suit
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- After 5 p.m.: Suit (or Tuxedo)
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- After 6 p.m.: Tuxedo (or Dark Suit)
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- After 7 p.m.: Tuxedo
Standard practice suggests that a notched lapel is appropriate for a single-breasted jacket. It is classy and subtle. However, the peaked lapel is becoming increasingly fashionable. Unless you like a more fashion-forward look or are partial to a peaked lapel, stick with the standard notched lapel, particularly for work, as it will never go out of style.
This depends largely on your body type and personal preferences. The side vent allows for the most movement, following a tradition that dates back to old Britain. It was a cut made for equestrians that gave them more mobility and comfort in the saddle. This option works well with a modern-fitting suit.
If you have a larger frame, we recommend the center vent, as the side vent may accentuate the size of your hips and seat. The center vent is largely an American creation that still allows for substantial movement while having a trimming effect on your figure.
The ventless approach is seldom seen, but can certainly look sharp on a modern fitting suit in the right atmosphere.
SHIRT
This choice is based on both personal preference and the formality of the situation at hand. The button-down is the classic American collar. It is best in casual settings without a jacket or with a jacket and no tie. It is also a great look with jeans.
For more formal occasions, the straight point and the spread collars work well. A straight point collar is the most formal, while a medium spread is the most versatile, and our favorite for the office, since it looks great with a tie or open collar. A full spread is a sharp look that is often seen on the streets of London, but remember to use a larger knot when wearing a tie with this collar.
If you want to play the interview safe, match your solid suit with a classic white or blue shirt. Combine this look with an exquisite tie to create a powerful image. If you are comfortable sporting a bolder look, we suggest a solid or herringbone grey suit with a check or a windowpane shirt and matching tie. With patterned shirts, it is good to remember that the smaller the check or stripe, the easier time you will have matching a tie.
Shirts with complement colors inside the collars and cuffs are better suited for casual or for business casual settings. Discerning individuals will notice the uniqueness of your shirt along with your taste for fine clothing. However, you can still wear them in business formal environments, as the inside of your collar isn’t visible when wearing a tie.
If you walk into any off-the-rack retailer and ask for a dress shirt, they’ll ask for two measurements: your arm length and neck size. If you’re lucky they’ll ask whether you like a classic cut or slim fit. At most, you’ll offer two measurements and a fit type. It is a game of averages and, as a result, you are left with an average fitting shirt.
At Alton Lane, we don’t even begin cutting the fabric to make your shirt until you place an order, allowing for full customization and a fit that is perfect for you. We use over 10 measurements to get the make your shirt specifically for you. There is simply no comparison.
There is no hard and set rule here. When selecting a fabric to go inside your collar and cuffs, think about what pattern would complement the exterior color or pattern of your shirt. In general, consider complementary colors (pink and blue), different shades of the same color (Carolina blue and Sky blue), and different textures or patterns (checks and solids). Try a number of options and see what you are drawn to the most.
We offer nine cuff styles for our shirts. There are three button types—one-button, two-button and French cuff. With each of these choices you have three options: square, rounded and mitered (cut corner). These last three choices are all a matter of personal preference. In terms of the actual cuff type, there are certain occasions that demand a French cuff—such as wearing a tuxedo. Never wear a tuxedo with a one- or two- button shirt.
All three cuff types are appropriate for the office, with the one-button considered the most informal. Just remember to be mindful of your audience when wearing a French cuff shirt. Also, pay particular attention to your cufflinks. There is a noticeable difference between playful and gaudy. If ever in doubt, go with the silk knots; they are generally a safe option and are certainly less imposing than metal or stone.
Similar to suits, you should first outfit your closet with the essentials. While solid whites, blues and pinks might not be bold or creative, they should form the foundation of your dress wardrobe. From there, use your dress shirts to express your individuality. Get an assortment of checks, windowpanes and stripes. At a minimum it’s good to have 10 to 12 great dress shirts so you can get through two weeks without visiting the dry cleaner. A mature wardrobe will generally have 20 to 25 shirts, ensuring a shirt for every occasion.
This is a matter of personal style and preference. We like to recommend initials on the cuff; it’s subtle, understated and classic. If you don't want your monogram to be visible, try having it stitched inside the back of your collar.
If you primarily wear off-the-rack shirts, you are most likely used to the center-pleated shirt. This is the standard in the industry for off-the-rack shirts. It allows for extra movement as the most additional fabric is found in the center pleat. Side pleats allow for less extra room, which ultimately leads to a more form-fitting look. This is a great option for men with slender frames. The trendiest option is a non-pleated shirt. This is very European and works well for your after-hours attire.
BLAZER
Blazers are a great way to personalize your wardrobe and add variety. For starters, everyone needs a classic blue blazer. The blue blazer works great in semi-formal occasions, for business casual events or simply with jeans. We suggest you have between four and five blazers for different occasions.
With blazers it is far more common to see a center vent than side vents, however we suggest you stick with what you prefer. If you tend to get side vents on all of your suit jackets, stay with what works for you.
This depends on your social calendar. If you are a frequent host or guest in your social circuit, we suggest you own at least two blue blazers: one for professional occasions and one for social occasions. This will ensure you always have a backup if you get in a bind. Consider ordering one classic blue blazer in a mid-weight wool and a second in a light navy linen for summer or a midnight blue cashmere for winter months.
Tradition says wear your linen from Memorial Day to Labor Day. However, if the weather turns warm or you head to the islands for a winter getaway, don’t be afraid to bring your linen. After all, aside from being a great look, linen is far more breathable than wool and will keep you more comfortable on those hot days.
Feel free to be more playful with your blazer lining. We suggest bright colors, patterns or stripes. Set yourself apart and personalize your wardrobe with something fun.
We like our blazers with one or two buttons. A two-button blazer is the standard and there’s very little reason to stray from this. However, for a more modern, casual look you may want to try a one-button blazer.
While the standard is the notched lapel, peaked lapels are seen more frequently on blazers. As blazers can be used for more social purposes than a suit jacket, it is ok to push the style limits a little more.
While we suggest keeping as little as possible in your jacket pockets, as it helps keep the form of the jacket, we’ve designed our jackets with four pockets. We have a standard pocket inside the lapel on each side where you can keep your billfold, sunglasses, tickets to a game or a few business cards. We have two specialty pockets on the inside of the left lapel: one is for your pen or cigar and the other is for your Blackberry or iPhone.